The Architecture of Clothing:
sweet and low and zipper dresses

shot by amanda "canal flowers" anderson. Modeled by their maker. [read more below!]
scroll over image for info

MONIKA MILLER was an architecture student at that time of this fashion shoot, whose alter-ego, PANAMA BRONSON, churned out clothing and accessory pieces that revolved around re-use of material and re-contextualization of form. Both themes are a result of her interest in structure and simultaneous "love/hate relationship with fashion." The sweet and Low dress is a socially infused piece "about being fake or overly sweet on the surface, yet oppressed internally, thus 'sweet and low' as in depressed," MILLER told us. "The 1950-'s corseted shape, is about trying to achieve a perfect body through oppressive undergarments, a practice we have supposedly progressed beyond. Yet, eating fake sugar to stay thin, even though these sweeteners might be carcinogenic, seems just as unhealthily backwards as wearing a corset."

All of MILLER's work revolves around the reuse and reinfusing of old non-recyclable material. "In modern society so much is thrown away, abandoned—this creates untapped resources of post-industrial /post-consumer origin—new "raw material." Recycling material is low-tech. There is no mining for materials or hunting for whales or foxes. Reused objects can determine the ultimate outcome of a piece." Sweetener packets provide a pattern for a dress. The packing tape provides structure and durability. THe idea of wearing a dress made of commonplace Sweet n' Low packets which are available at no cost in every dining establishment is fabulously trashy, and it opens up several layers of conversation."

The Sweet and Low dress was documented by MEG VINSON while the rest of the shoot was taken by AMANDA ANDERSON [whose been one of our most prolific photographers, and whose film work we investigated under her alias CANAL FLOWERS in ISSUE 3.]

MONIKA: The zipper dress was made using a lining zipper from an excruciatingly ugly trench coat and pieces of fabric from a black sweater-shirt (salvaged from a friend's thrift-store-bound bag). I wound the zipper around my dress form and hand stitched pieces of the shirt to it. THe structure of the dress relies completely on the zipper. THe dress unzips to form a line of fabric, and in order to put it on or take it off, it has to be completely zipped around the body.

All the pieces in the shot are subverted interpretations on stereotypical forms. The earrings in these shots are made from mirror holders, and the pink bag you see is made from packaging you would usually see protecting a laptop. The pieces all work with stereotypes. The garden hose bracelet imitates a snakeskin bracelet and the plastic bag "hole" purse imitates a feather purse, but is made from the discarded circles of plastic that are left punched out of the handles of plastic bags. The plastic ringed purses are made from six-pack rings, yet their design and intricate structure provide maximum durability.

Architecture influences by designs via the analytical thought process I've learned in school. I feel better able to take an object apart an see the elements and forces working to make it functional and well designed.